What is the difference between afs and af c

Therefore, your first step is to look on the side of your lens and change the switch to AF or A as its shown on some lenses. You will also need to turn your top dial to a setting other than AUTO. For this example, set it to P for program. This setting will give you the option of choosing between all 4 focus modes. It should bring up the information screen, as seen in the LCD display. Now use the up down left and right buttons near the Ok button to highlight the focus mode.

Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content. Privacy Policy. Ask Question. Asked 10 years, 3 months ago. Active 3 years, 7 months ago. Viewed 41k times. Improve this question. Craig Walker What is the make and model of your camera?

See also: photo. It's unfortunate the names overlap — Billy ONeal. It's often best to include enough information in the question to make it unambiguous -- I see Craig has now edited it to include that; it would also be good in the future to give an indication as to what your camera is; many of the abbreviations used are specific to a particular manufacturer for example, vlad tries to cover both options — Rowland Shaw.

Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Paraphrasing the article: AF-C AF-continuous or servo mode is used for photographing moving subjects. AF-S means single shot and is used for subject that is stationary. AF-A is where the camera decides whether the subject is moving or not and tries to alternate between the servo and single shot mode accordingly. Improve this answer. ElendilTheTall Sridhar Iyer Sridhar Iyer 2, 14 14 silver badges 20 20 bronze badges. Well this seems a pretty useful feature to have, but is it smoke and mirrors by Panasonic to try and capture a little more market share.

Let's take a very close look at what you get, and more importantly what you lose! Each frame is only 8 megapixel x in the aspect ratio as opposed to the full 12 megapixel image in normal shooting. Because of the switch to a video mode the crop factor increases meaning that the widest angle focal length goes from 25mm to 27mm effective focal length however the telephoto setting focal length goes from mm to mm effective focal at the aspect ratio.

There is still the question of whether full image stabilisation is effective in this mode so this too may affect image quality. I'm a rather sad person and don't believe any marketing hype until I fully understand what it means to the images I shoot. To this end I set up a 45 degree image plane with a mm rule on it.

With the camera set over a metre away from the target I first shot in aperture priority mode, f2. I could thus establish the image coverage and depth of field on this aspect ratio image at 12 megapixels. Next I ran the post focus of the camera changing nothing. From the images extracted you can see the evidence of the crop changing and the size of the image reduced to 8 megapixels.

So in summary for me it has somewhat limited application. For close up macro work it seemed a great idea, however I would be as well shooting 4k video and extracting the image from that if I performed a focus pull to cover all the depth of field needed to capture the individual images for focus stacking.

The loss of pixels from 12M to 8M means that only limited cropping can occur and of course this is MP4 to JPEG conversion as well so some losses will occur. For critical work camera RAW is still the best option and use different focus points to get the images for stacking. Heres a set of images to show just how I arrived at this conclusion. I eluded to the loss of quality by using the post focus mode, especially for close ups.

Here's my reason for stating that. Identical exposures of the model polar bear 75mm 3 inch long same exposure for each, same lighting etc. For some occasions like family or wedding group shots it might be OK where they may be a chance of getting people with closed eyes and you could select a frame to clone from, otherwise I don't think this will be a feature that I will be using very often.

Here's my video showing the installation and use of the upgrade. Well I've just completed a fair bit of testing the new camera and based upon those tests I can make a few observations about it. It must be appreciated though that in any head to head test the problem of manufacturing tolerances has t be considered.

On camera could be at the lowest acceptable quality control point and the other at a much higher level. Whilst in isolation each camera is perfectly acceptable the difference between the two can appear quite exaggerated. The grip is now a little deeper on the making it feel more secure when being held. The rear thumb part of the body grip is also a little more sculptured and I have not experienced any of the problems of catching the WB button that I used to do with the FZ and had to devise my fibre protection ring around the 4 way navigation buttons.

Gone is the troublesome rear control wheel and replaced by a much sturdier feeling top control wheel. It's not quite as easy to switch between operations like aperture control to EV control on the but I think this is a worthwhile modification of the camera control system. Built into the grip is of course the battery box and SDHC card holder.

The big, welcome, change here is the hinge of the compartment door now allows the door to open to the front of the camera and not towards the tripod mount.

Using one of the "arca" type plates I am able to access the battery and SDHC card whilst the camera is still on the tripod. I haven't needed to use the adaptor plate that I devised for the FZ The new focus wheel on the side of the lens barrel allows much better control of the focussing operation. It is still electronic focus and like the FZ it needs to rotate at a minimum speed in order for the control circuit to respond and change the focus position. Again with focus peaking and Zebra pattern the exact point of focus is easily determined.

Like the FZ when in manual focus mode it was possible to quickly execute a automatic focus using the "focus" button on the lens side. Speaking of the LCD screen it is a touch screen with a higher resolution and makes viewing the images a lot easier to determine the quality of them in preview mode. The biggest change, for me anyway, is the electronic viewfinder EVF. It is much larger, brighter and higher resolution and has a nice rubber surround. The dioptre adjustment seems to be a little bit more positive as well.

The microphone ports on the top of the camera have been relocated towards the back of the camera. Presumably this was to reduce zoom motor noise pick up in video recording. What I found though in field testing was that wind noise was much more prevalent in the and the audio quality a little "muffled" compared to that recorded with the FZ Some sample images from 4K photo shoot mode.

A burst firing of up to 8M depending upon the chosen aspect ratio can be viewed in camera to select the exact frame that contains the moment that you as the photographer wanted to capture. Using my "standard" table top scene with the same lighting setup that I normally use I conducted a set of ISO noise testing under the controlled condition.

ISO - with standard photostyle and all parameters at 0,0,0,0. Here's the reference image. Resolution mode of the "extended" setting. The results slightly exaggerate jpeg noise though! It's all down really to personal preference and the final use of the image.

Resolution settings. A few sample images taken with the established parameters. Moving up to the FZ from the FZ can be a daunting task - especially when you have been using the FZ for a long period of time and have become totally accustomed to where things are in the menu etc. Hopefully this short guide and an associated video will help you. Apart from some very notable design changes to the body of the FZ such as the new EVF, higher resolution touch screen and the new top control dial there are some subtle changes to the menu system that does take some getting used to.

Maybe the first thing you will notice when you first turn on the camera is the fact that there is no internal memory in this camera!

The FZ had enough internal memory to store 13 full resolution images, so it is really important to carry a memory card with you otherwise you're not going to be able to capture any images. The LCD display of the FZ has a native aspect ratio and has a higher resolution as well as touchscreen capability.

In practical terms this means that the images displayed on this screen are about 5 mm wider than what you see on the FZ screen. You may notice in the picture size menu that there are now only three choices large, medium and small.

With the FZ this could've been five choices. The touchscreen offers some new opportunities to be very creative in the way that you photograph subjects. You may recall my recommendations for the FZ was to use the aperture priority mode set the base ISO to and then set the aperture to F4. I would recommend starting with these values for the FZ Let's consider how to set up the Focus mode so that it simulates how the FZ works.

The default focus mode is the new 49 area method whereas the previous FZ only had a 23 area mode. My recommendation, as before, is to use the single area focus mode AFS. You may recall with the FZ that the size and position of the focus target was set by pressing the focus button on the side of the lens barrel.

This gave a very fast and convenient way to set the focus point. With the FZ there are a number of ways in which you can replicate this. The first option is to use the left navigation key followed by the down navigation key. Once the focus target has appeared you can change its position using the four way navigation buttons and changing size using the top control dial and the side control wheel. Alternatively you can set the Direct Focus Area to ON and then use the four way navigation keys to set the position and again the top dial to set the size.