Where to buy untempered hardboard

Plus the rear has cradling which also affects the amount of gesso, so is perhaps appling equal coats no longer necessary or, in fact, should I be quantifying the amount of gesso applied either by weight or volume to ensure that the amount is equal on front and rear? That's it! Thanks so much. Today, tempered hardboard is superior to untampered for this purpose. Additionally, not all hardboards are equal even if one is comparing a sample of one manufacturer's tempered board with one from another company.

This PDF from Amperstand is a useful read:. I personally do not like hardboards as painting substrates unless they are surrounded by a hardwood surrounded like a frame. Hardboards are also heavy, as you state. I would not recommend applying gesso to fomecore or chloroplast.

The fomecore is just not stable enough in any direction and is easily punctured. We generally want the substrate to be more rigid than the priming and paint layers. I have never experimented with putting grounds on Chloroplast and, therefore, cannot recommend it. Many artists like to use thin birch ply as a support for gesso and acrylic dispersion grounds. I do not recommend these as the ground invariably develops checks along the grain lines.

A search in our rigid supports section will reveal a number of threads on this subject. However, you can glue a fine fabric to the cradle lightweight ply. This mitigates most of the problems with checking.

Again, this has been discussed many times here including suitable adhesives, etc.. A gessoed braced panel made from lightweight birch or other quality ply would likely be lighter than the hardboard panels you are used to. Aluminum composite boards may eventually be the solution for those looking for a rigid stable panel that does not have a grain and does not respond greatly to changes in the environment. I believe that this is still in the testing phase but I will reach out to other moderators to see what the current state of ACM panels also require a fabric interlayer before an animal glue bound ground can be applied.

It is a great idea to apply an equal number of layers to the front and back. I do think that you may be over thinking this and just adding a equal number should be sufficient. In fact, the bracing makes this difficult anyway. I would probably paint the back of the panel and bracing. Finally, the above is not the final word on the subject. Other moderators and poster will likely have other ideas and incite.

I just remembered many years ago that I worked with another painting conservator to help them come up with the protocol to treat a group of egg tempera paintings on fomecore. The paint was literally scaling off in sheets. The artist did not apply a ground so the tempera was directly on the paper coating. I would think that applying an animal glue ground to fomecore would severely distort the substrate as it does not have enough rigidity on its own to counteract the surface tension resultant form the drying of the glue.

I would not think that even coating the reverse would remedy this. If you decide to test this out let us know the results. I would not change my mind as to the suitability of fomecore either way, though. I did not understand that I could search the content by keyword but now I do and have! Thank you for confirming that tempered hardboard is not only OK but superior to untempered standard.

I read the Ampersand link and was reminded that before I started my previous 4' x 8' panel I had communicated with them about obtaining one of their panels in that size. It turned out that the price of shipping was prohibitive. I also inquired about buying similar panels but could only purchase them in quantities of which would be impossible to store and require several lifetimes to create paintings at my slow painting pace. I do carefully cradle my hardboard panels right up to the edges and champfer the edges prior as Koo recommends.

I have been using kiln-dried douglas fir, which although it is technically a soft wood has a very high hardness rating similar to hardwoods. However, based on your resources section I will look for kiln dried oak or maple. I found it curious that in the rigid panel resource section is states that only the bracing on the edges is to be glued. The interior braces should be affixed to the outer bracing using hardware.

I assume that is to allow expansion and contraction of the wood, similar to the cradling used on panels constructed from planks of wood at least the ones on very old paintings. But perhaps this is unnecessary and I can continue to glue my bracing to the interior of the panel as well as the exterior? Perhaps you have a source you could share? Plus in your resource section it recommends maple, walnut or mahogony and not birch as birch may cause more checking.

Finally, even if I find a source, due to size, panels are usually shipped by freight which is very expensive. But if I do find a superior panel for my purpose I would be willing to pay in the hundreds but maybe not in the thousands for one panel!! It is manufactured in Oregon and distributed by the Stimson Company. And from what I read it would be lighter than the hardboard which would be a real plus.

The wood fibers are then randomly aligned parallel to the surface, and using heat and pressure, are made into a solid core panel. This process allows a uniform and very strong panel, making it one of the best substrates for painting, laminating, and construction. While still a relatively light-weight panel, hardboard has a significantly higher density compared to MDF panels with a much higher tensile strength and internal bond than MDF and most HDF panels.

This is the most stringent accreditation in the industry. Our aspen fiber overlay provides a more pH-neutral wood content and even uniform fibers. Medium-density fiberboards MDF and High-density fiberboards HDF are engineered panels that are made through a dry process that completely breaks down the particles of wood and reconstitutes them into a new panel using heat, pressure, and a binder.

One of the most common binders used in their manufacture is urea formaldehyde, leading to potential problems with out-gassing. More layers of sealing and gesso are required to eliminate the fiber raising that happens with MDF and most HDFs on the market. Click here to explore the full selection of Ampersand panels and tools. Categories: Hardbord Product info. What you need to know about painting on hardboard: Hardboard panels are probably the best value on the market for artists today.

Tempered panels produced within the U. However, very small amounts of tempering oil continues to be added to the integral fibers. Ask you local smaller lumber yard to order it for you, definitely not a stock item. Comes in 4X8 sheets and have them cut your desired sizes for you on their table saw. Thanks Leo!

No frisbee for this gal…what IS the purpose for this Duron…as in Duron what? Even in that beaufiul state that you live in that lacks a ocean I am sure you can place an order for it, you are still in the lower 48!.. Managing your WetCanvas! Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 of 26 total.

November 22, at am Thanks in advance for any replies! Wayne Default. I have seen suggestions for both tempered both sides are smooth and untempered one side smooth and the other side rough , side surface has no bearing on tempered.. November 22, at pm Tim, I think I understand what your asking… sometimes your words put my mind a spinning Typically Tung oil is applied to the tempered hardboard when it has just come out of the press and heating might have the order messed up there it dries so fast that the sheets are piled on top of each other right away.

MFD is good stuff, heavy but lovely-you must be sure to seal out moisture from all sides. Leopoldo1 Default. The first three letters are an acronym for…………….. Events WC! Site Discussions Wearable Art. Username Password Remember Me Lost your password? Forgotten Password Cancel. Register For This Site A password will be e-mailed to you.